Ball pythons are native to Africa, Asia, and Australian cities, and thousands are imported each year to keep in captivity in the U.S. as pets.
The basic color of a typical ball python morph is either black, deep grayish, or brown.
The snake’s body is covered in a smudgy design of yellow, light brown, or golden, while the ventral parts are ordinarily white or ivory.
Yet, what distinguishes a Pastel ball python from others?
The pastel ball python is a color variant of the ordinary ball python, with a brighter yellow coloring, white mouth, and pale green or golden eyes. A co-dominant mutated gene produces a Pastel ball python’s coloration morph, which allows the snake’s pigments to be more vibrant.
Pastel Ball Python- History
The first Pastel ball python batch was discovered in 1997, and ever since, this morph has gone mainstream.
Greg Graziani bought a vividly colored male ball python from a Miami reptilian dealer in May 1994. The very next year, Graziani noticed that Kevin McCurley of New England Reptile Distributor had a female that appeared just like his morph.
Graziani and McCurley were both absolutely sure their snakes’ coloring was the result of a genetic abnormality. Because neither of them wanted to sell their rare ball python, Graziani bred his “Type 2 Jungle” to a regular female in 1997.
When a typical female deposited eggs, Graziani predicted a batch of common ball pythons that were heterozygous for the coloration of the male. However, when the kids developed on July 22, 1997, he noticed that all 7 of his baby pythons resembled their father!
Graziani’s inaugural Pastels were sold for $2,500 apiece. A Pastel ball python may now be purchased for $100 or less. Pastels may be purchased all over the ball python industry. They also come with a variety of preferences that you can combine and combine to create stunning dual Pastels.
Continue to read for further details on how to properly care for a Pastel ball python, covering facts on the ball python habitat, maintenance, temperament, and color variants.
We’ve also included details on the cost and availability of Pastel ball pythons to enable you in making an educated judgment about whether or not to keep one as a pet.
Pastel Ball Python- Appearance
A Pastel Ball Python may appear to a beginner owner, quite similar to an ordinary Ball Python. Yet, apparent changes are extremely visible to the expert eye.
A real Pastel Ball Python will be significantly brighter in coloration than a conventional Ball Python, with far more flushing on the crown of the head and vertebral segments (back scales).
More precisely, you’ll see a brilliant yellow tint that runs up their side from their belly button. Pastels, on the other hand, seem to get a little filthy as they mature, and this coloration can become a little subdued.
Their general pattern will resemble that of an Ordinary Ball Python. Their tummy, on the other hand, will be neater and lighter than normal’s, with no other darker stains.
Green eyes are common in Pastel Ball Pythons. Therefore, don’t just look for green eyes to tell if they’re pastel ones; other ball pythons can have green eyes too.
Pastels can also have white lips as well.
When two Pastel ball pythons are crossed, the result is the Super Pastel ball python, often known as “Purple Haze.” These snakes have a purple flushing tint and irregular yellow designs with additional keyhole motifs.
Size and Weight of a Pastel Ball Python
Males can grow to be two to three feet long. Females are bigger than males, ranging in height from 3 to 5 feet. Around three years, males are fully mature. Females develop at a far quicker pace than males, and they achieve full maturity in just four years.
Males have larger tails than females, although both exhibit shorter stubby tails and bulky bodies.
Most ball pythons are 10 to 12 inches long at hatching, but they swiftly double in size in just two to three months!
A mature Pastel Ball Python should weigh between 2 and 4 pounds once it has finished growing.
The Lifespan of a Pastel Ball Python
In the wild, ball pythons live for around ten years, but in cages, they may live for up to thirty years.
The Philadelphia Zoo had one of the world’s oldest ball pythons, which survived to age 47 years old.
Your Pastel Ball Python may live a happy and prosperous life with appropriate care and affection, giving you years of amusement and friendship.
Pastel Ball Python- Care Guide
Ball pythons are considered acceptable snakes because of their low maintenance, and they are among the varieties that first-time snake caretakers select due to their ease of care. The most difficult task is feeding. If you want to acquire or raise a ball python, you’ll need the following instructions.
Dimensions and Size of the Enclosure
However, there is a lot of misconception available about the appropriate enclosure size. Many people seem to assume that ball pythons may live happily long in a 40-gallon tank!
But instead, while this size is ideal for youngsters and tiny snakes, it is far from enough for giant adults.
Mature snakes (typically 3 feet in length or more) should be kept in a 120-gallon enclosure accordingly. These are usually 48 inches long, 24 inches broad, and 12 inches tall.
In a 10-gallon or 20-gallon tank, hatchlings will grow. When they reach the junior phase, place them in a 40-gallon aquarium as soon as it reaches 20 inches long.
As a general guideline, the container should be 1 to 1.5 times the length of your snake. Therefore, if your snake is 3 feet in length, you should look for a cage that is 36 to 54 inches in length.
PVC and plastic habitat containers are ideal for Pastel Ball Pythons since they are inexpensive and effectively preserve humidity. The majority of plastic cages are opaque, giving your ball python a sense of safety.
Glass terrariums, on the other hand, are an excellent alternative for most pet parents who like staring at their ball pythons.
Glass terrariums are more costly and less effective at keeping temperature and relative humidity, but they help in easy sight. If using a glass terrarium, at minimum three of the four surfaces should be covered with an opaque backdrop to offer your Pastel ball python a feeling of protection.
Substrate
It’s time to locate the right substrate or surface for your Pastel Ball Python once you’ve determined the size of the cage required.
The following are examples of good substrates:
- Pesticide-free topsoil is great for holding moisture, and penetrating, and is easy to come by for pet owners.
- Cypress Mulch is a reliable and effective base that holds moisture efficiently.
- Coconut Husk/Fiber maintains moisture well, lends itself to borrowing, and is easy to clean.
You could also use paper towels or sheets, but neither of these options would provide nourishment for your pet and are hard to clean. Cedar, wood, or aspen flakes, as well as all sandy substrates, must be prevented.
Lighting
A basking light, positioned above an appropriate basking location, should be utilized to imitate a 12-hour day/night phase. A UVB light is not required for ball pythons.
Heating
A temperature gradient should exist between the colder side of the tank and the warmer part. The heat should be around 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit on the colder side and 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the basking zone. A ceramic bulb, instead of a heating pad, can be used to keep the evening temperature above 70 degrees F.
Heat lamps most closely resemble the sun, providing a more authentic and natural environment for your Pastel ball python. Furthermore, the above heat sources enable your snake to crawl within its skin or behind cover to avoid the heat if desired.
Finally, when it comes to heat sources, avoid relying on heat rocks because they are known for scorching snakes. Don’t let any pet shop staff convince you!
Make absolutely sure the heat bulbs are switched off at night, so your snake may maintain its normal Circadian Cycle.
Humidity
Because most homes lack the necessary humidity for a Pastel Ball Python, you may need to invest in a humidifier or misting equipment.
Whether you use a mister or not, your Pastel Ball Python will require humidity levels of 50 to 60%. Low humidity issues can affect shedding troubles, as well as other health complications.
Water
Fill a good, spacious water dish with clean tap or mineral water for your Pastel ball python.
The water dish should be large enough for your snake to dip in if it so desires, but weighty enough that it does not fall over!
Nobody prefers to drink contaminated water, so replace the water in your Pastel ball python’s tank at least once every 2 days, or perhaps more usually as needed.
Feeding Your Pastel Ball Python
One of the most difficult things about having a pastel ball python is feeding it. But don’t worry, Reptileszilla has got you covered.
Pastel Pythons are predatory snakes that eat their prey. They exit their tunnels at night in pursuit of small animals. According to research, males are more likely to ascend and devour birds 70% of the time. Females, on the other hand, remain closer to the surface and consume rodents 60% of the time. Because they are a kind of constrictor, they kill their victim by coiling around them.
Their prey should be as broad as the widest region of their bodies in captivity. It’s conceivable that they’ll consume larger animals, but don’t put too much burden on their bodies.
Because some Pastel Ball Pythons prefer mice over rats, you should provide both throughout their immature period to avoid finicky eaters.
The following are some general eating recommendations:
- Every 5 days, one little mouse for ball python hatches.
- Every 7 days, one large mouse or little rat is fed to the juveniles.
- One rat each 10-14 days for grownups
Whilst live rats can be fed, it is preferred to feed frozen and defrost rodents since live animals can attack and harm your Pastel ball python.
Warm-up chilled and thawing food next to your snake and jiggle them around to provoke their normal hunting activity.
Your Pastel Ball Python will avoid eating if it is anxious or unhappy in its surroundings.
Pastel Pythons can go on hunger strikes for a variety of causes other than anxiety. Try feeding them other tiny rodents, such as gerbils and rodents, or even young chicks, to mix up their diet. Furthermore, consider raising the moisture content in your snake’s terrarium.
While shedding, pastel Ball Pythons seem reluctant to eat. You can feed your pet, but don’t be concerned if it refuses.
It’s also possible that your Pastel Ball Python will vomit its meals on occasion. Allow your snake at least 1.5 weeks to recover after a regurgitation and feed it a smaller diet.
Cleaning
Infections and fungus will rapidly grow in your snake’s habitat because of the high moisture needs of Pastel ball pythons.
To avoid this, you’ll need to maintain a consistent repair and maintenance schedule. You must spot-clean your python’s aquarium every day by eliminating excrements and urates.
You should sanitize and thoroughly clean the habitat once a month.
Replacing the substrate and washing all of the things in the aquarium with soap and warm water should be part of the sanitizing procedure.
Pastel Python-Common health issues
Poor husbandry is linked to several of the health conditions listed below. You may reduce the chances of your snake being unwell if you provide regular, species-appropriate care.
Mouth or scale rot, cancer, and prolapse are all common ailments in confined snakes. Pastel Ball Pythons are susceptible to a lot of health problems as a result of their care and behavior:
- Anorexia
- Sheds that are in bad shape
- Impaction
- Obesity
This species is prone to anorexia because they are easily upset by environmental factors and may go months without eating.
This snake prefers moderate to high moisture and will shed poorly if the humidity isn’t steady. Respiratory infections can also be exacerbated by low humidity.
Pastel Shedding: What to Consider
As it matures and develops, the pastel ball python loses its skin on a regular basis. It will shed every 4-6 weeks on average. You may observe that your python’s eyes get hazy as it begins to shed. The snake’s skin should be shed in one section, and you should avoid touching it until it is completely shed. If the skin becomes trapped, make a handmade humidity chamber, and don’t try to wet the snake, since it will drown.
Pastel Ball Python Attitude And Handling
Ball pythons are placid and timid reptiles that make excellent pets for both skilled and inexperienced reptile enthusiasts. Ball pythons like being handled after they get to know their owner because of their calm temper.
Because ball pythons are nocturnal, they spend the evening eating and being energetic, while resting and spending time in their hide during the day.
Two moist hides should be provided for your snake, and they should be situated on different ends of the habitat. This allows the python to choose between a warm and a chilly environment, allowing it to maintain a suitable body temperature while concealing.
Avoid making jerky motions near your snake and constantly support its body when handling it to build trust.
When you first hold a ball python, it may shy or even attack you. However, over practice, your snake will become relaxed and appreciate being handled by you.
It’s advisable to handle your python while it’s more relaxed if it appears nervous or ready to strike. You should also prevent holding your Pastel ball python before feeding it, since some snakes will refuse to eat for a period of time after being touched.
It’s also a good way to avoid holding your python shortly after it eats, as this might make the snake feel quite uneasy.
Price
As a guideline, the more recent a morph is, the more costly it is. The price of a morph tends to drop once it has been effectively produced for many years.
An excellent example of this is a Lavender Albino, which formerly cost $40,000 but now sells for roughly $250 because of its increased popularity.
A Pastel ball python may cost anywhere from $30 to $75, with the typical cost being approximately $50. This is a lot less expensive than when the morph was initially released, when you could expect to have to pay more than $1,000.
Pastels with less intense hues cost less than those with bright yellow marks.
Availability
Local breeders, reptile exhibitions, and online breeders all have pastel ball pythons available. A Pastel is unlikely to be found in a regular pet store, which mostly sells normal pythons.
If you live near a reptile specialist shop, they will almost certainly have a few different ball python variants for you to pick from.
A trustworthy internet breeder will be your best option if you’re hunting for an exceedingly uncommon morph.
A professional breeder should be capable of answering any of your concerns regarding ball pythons, and it’s also a good idea to visit the snake before buying it to confirm you’re getting a healthy creature.
Final thoughts
Pastel balls do not cost a lot of money. Even premium Pastel morphs are affordable, but some still sell for hundreds of dollars. However, if it means purchasing a robust snake from a renowned breeder, don’t be afraid to invest a little extra money.
Pastel Ball Pythons are an extremely adaptable creatures that can survive in a variety of settings and habitats as long as their fundamental needs are satisfied. These lovely snakes make excellent pets for people of all expertise levels.
Let us know if you’d want to purchase this stunning pastel ball python after reading this article.
FAQ’s
You could be taken aback by how cute a ball python appears when it yawns, but is it natural and safe?
Yawning is a common occurrence in most ball pythons, and it tends to happen before or after eating. Outside of these circumstances, persistent yawning, especially when accompanied by wheezing or mucous, might be an indication of respiratory illness.
Because ball pythons are not poisonous and lack teeth, their bites may not be as serious as ones from other snakes. If you’re attacked by a ball python, proceed with care and seek medical attention.
Ball pythons have penetrating dark eyes with small lines running across them, and they typically have the same color patterns as their body. When ball pythons lose their skin, their eyes become blue or gray for a short time. This is a temporary color shift, not a feature of the shedding process.
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