Leopard Gecko Habitat: Guide To Leopard Gecko Habitat Setup Close to Nature

A natural setting is critical to the health and wellbeing of your pet leopard gecko. You’ll discover everything in this article you require to create the ideal leopard gecko habitat.

Few Facts about Leopard Gecko’s Habitat:

You’ve undoubtedly heard the following about the leopard gecko’s habitat:

• Leopard geckos are native to arid, dry areas.
• When it comes to terrarium arrangements, Leos are not extremely demanding.
• Leopard geckos do not need the use of specific lighting.

But did you also hear that: 

• Despite their arid environment, leopard Geckos require a damp area in their tank and a continual source of freshwater.
• Several types of regularly marketed substrates can harm gecko’s health.
• That geckos still need temperature control within their tanks, but not from intense lights?

Leopard Gecko Natural Habitat:

These species live in a hot, tough, and harsh climate in their natural habitat. They prefer arid deserts, semi-desert, and scrublands to grow in. The landscape in these ecosystems is generally rocky, and the temperature extremes are considerable. The hardy leopard gecko goes underneath the surface when things get too difficult! Geckos will burrow underground and undergo a condition of semi-hibernation if it becomes too cold.

Distribution:

Leopard geckos may be found in Northern India, Afghanistan, Iran, Nepal, and some areas of Pakistan, where they prefer a habitat of low shrubs, gravel, grass, and rocks. They’ve evolved to live in this specific type of environment and would also struggle to survive in any other. These are very famous pets outside of the wild and may be located in homes all around the globe. They haven’t created invasive populations outside of their natural habitat, regardless of their fame as a pet. A total of five subspecies of geckos are generally found, and all are found in the same locality.

Leopard Gecko Habitat Setup – How to Select the Right Tank for your Leopard Gecko:

When finding a residence for your gecko, there are a few things to consider. Before making your decision, consider these given tips in your mind:

There’s No Way Out:

It’s important that your cage is escape-proof. This is for the safety of your gecko. A glass enclosure/tank is an excellent option. Wire/mesh would not be an appropriate enclosure since it would not enable you to adjust the temperature/climate and provide openings where the geckos may getaway/stuck.

Environment That Can Be Controlled:

You need to provide your gecko with a healthy habitat. Inside the cage, you should be capable of managing the lighting, temperature, and humidity. 

Provide Plenty of Room for the Reptile to Act Naturally:

Your pet should not be crammed into a small space. You’ll want to create a cage that gives your pet adequate room to move around. Leos aren’t keen climbers and don’t require a lot of space.

Tank Selection:

While selecting a tank/enclosure for your leopard gecko, keep in mind the following:

1. Tank Size
2. Tank Material 
3. Tank Lid
4. Tank Ventilation
5. Tank Access

Tank Size

The enclosure size is the primary item to think about. There are many ways; how people search for tank size, some find tank size according to age, some by size, and some search by the number of geckos to live in the tank. One gecko requires at least a tank capacity of ten gallons. For every lizard you introduce, you’ll need to raise the enclosure capacity by five gallons (19 L) on average:

No. of Leopard Gecko	Tank size in Gallons	Tank Size in Liters
1	10	~38
2	15	~57
3	20	~76

By the age of your pet leopard gecko, the tank size you may have:

Age of Leopard Gecko	Tank Size in Liters	Tank size in Gallons
Juvenile gecko	~38	10 gallons
Adult	~76	20 gallons

Considering your pet’s age and size while choosing a gecko enclosure. The dimensions are length, width, and height:

Size of Leopard Gecko	Tank Size in Liters	Tank size in Gallons	Dimensions
6 inches (16 cm) or shorter	20	~76	30 x 12 x 12
7 inches (17cm) or longer	40	~151	36 x 18 x 18

Because geckos are ground lizards, they like long and shallow enclosures. Ninety percent of your Leo’s activities would take place at ground level. An extremely high gecko enclosure would be a waste of time and money for you. Avoid enclosures that are too tall or too narrow, like those utilized for chameleons or other tree-dwelling creatures.

The enclosure you’ll use to build your Leo home may be composed of a variety of materials. There are four most frequent:

Tank Material:

Glass Enclosures:

Glass containers are simple to clean and maintain proper humidity levels. They also feature translucent sides, which allows you to see your pet well. 

Pros:

The possibility to attach thermometers, artificial plants, and other decor on the glass sides is one feature of glass enclosures. Because glass cages are often light, they are easy to move about while cleaning or reorganizing the container. It is remarkably durable if thick enough and managed appropriately – a well-kept glass tank may seem brand new for years. 

Two options are a twenty gallons tank (with a matching mesh top) or reptile cages with side-opening doors. 

Cons:

The glass terrarium is strong yet can easily be broken because geckos’ containers are often smaller than other glass terrariums/aquariums, and the probability is obviously lower. Glass habitats’ sole drawback is they are highly-priced. A high-quality glass container will set you back between $100 and $200.

Plastic Enclosures:

The inexpensive choice on this list is a plastic container. Usually, they would cost between $20 and $30. Plastic containers are often unsightly and do not have the same aesthetic value as wooden or glass tanks. Because of their adaptability and durability, plastic containers manufactured of PVC/ABS plastic have grown famous in the hobby. 

Pros:

They are less likely to be damaged than glass terrariums, and their sides may be holed to accommodate equipment and cables. Plastic containers can be manufactured from individual plastic sheets or purchased as one-piece molded enclosures. 

Cons:

Plastic tanks have the disadvantage of being transparent just on the front side, with the rest of the container being opaque. Also, because these are more susceptible to scratching, you need to be more cautious when cleaning them.

Wooden tanks Enclosures:

Wooden enclosures are identical to plastic containers in terms of structure. Unfortunately, these cages are hard to get and do not provide enough habitat for geckos. In contrast to glass containers, these are also less practical. A wooden leos cage may cost anything from $50-$300. 

Pros:

All sides of a plywood container are constructed of wood, with the exception of the front, which is normally generally composed of glass. Wooden cages are one of the most affordable and simple to install.

Wooden shelves are skillfully transformed into enclosures by certain reptile hobbyists. Leos are ideal for shelf cages due to their size, and a shelf arrangement like this one may save your money, time, and energy if you have a lot of leopard geckos to house.

Cones:

The problem with wooden containers is that they are porous, absorbing water and hence prone to rotting and molds, as well as being challenging to disinfect.

Mesh Enclosures:

Lizards that prefer climbing are usually housed in mesh terrariums. Due to their arboreal nature, veiled chameleons are kept in mesh cages. Leopard geckos don’t climb since they aren’t arboreal. As a result, they should be kept in containers that are long rather than tall. Many mesh terrariums are tall because they are designed for climbing reptiles. As a result, it might be hard to find a gecko appropriate tank in a twenty gallons long mesh cage. If you can manage to locate a lengthy twenty gallons mesh cage, take humidity and stress into consideration. Mesh might make it difficult to maintain optimum humidity levels, and the obvious open area can be stressful to your lizard.

3. Tank Lid:

Ensure you get a lid that fits your container appropriately. A wire or mesh lid will be required to cover your terrarium.  Don’t pick a solid lid made of plastic, glass, or any other material. The lid must have a screen-style cover that allows fresh air to enter and exit the tank. The utilization of solid container covers raises the temperature and humidity in the terrarium to harmful levels. There’s minimal chance of your Leo climbing out of the container because it can’t climb the glass. Tanks must be covered not just to protect your lizard from escaping, but also to prevent other creatures (or curious children, undesirable bugs, pets) out while still supporting the lights for your Leo. 

4. Tank Ventilation:

To ensure enough ventilation and help to keep the right amount of humidity, a tank for the ordinary leopard gecko should include wide air vents along the walls or a mesh lid. Electronic ventilators, such as those found within your pc, are used to provide active ventilation. A tank harboring geckos, or any other reptiles for that matter, must have proper ventilation. A container’s ventilation might be active, passive, or a blend of both. The most popular type of passive ventilation is a mesh that covers the whole lid, a portion of the lid, or another top area of the cage.

5. Tank Access:

Cages featuring a combo of front and top-opening access ports are preferable for simpler reptile management in regards to decoration, cleanliness, feeding, and handling. When looking for the ideal leopard gecko terrarium, you’ll likely come across cages with three different types of doors or openings: 

1.  Top 
2.  Front
3. Combo,

Of course, each Leo keeper has its own preferences. However, the advantages and disadvantages of each are explained below.

Top Access: 

A glass terrarium that mimics a standard tank is commonly included in most beginner kits for terrestrial reptiles like leopard geckos. The main distinction is that cages designed specifically for lizards include a mesh cover composed of plastic, wire or both. This feature prevents your leos from escaping or becoming suffocated. When you get an overhead view of your terrarium layout, it’s also easy to decor and design.

Top-opening terrariums are not advised for the following reasons:

Because their natural predators in the environment would generally swoop down from the above, using this as their only gateway might be unpleasant for leos. If yours’ only ten or twenty gallons, heaters, light, and other fixtures are most likely installed on top of the lid; having to relocate things every time you check in on your lizard might be a cage with top access product that is really inconvenient.

Front Access:

Front-opening cages are a different form of the access point for reptiles. There are two types of front-opening doors: hinged and sliding. Clear plastic/glass is commonly used in leos vivarium cages with hinged front doors, with plastic, metal, wood, or a combination of all three used to frame the panels. As a result, they are frequently more expensive than top-opening containers of comparable volume and size. They might also have a basic or complex locking system that is either keyed or not.

Avoid putting your gecko in a terrarium with swinging hinged doors.

This is due to the fact that unless you manually keep the door in place, it will continue to move around. Some keepers have mistakenly exerted too much force when closing such doors, causing them to crash shut and break or chip.

The primary materials used in vivaria with sliding front doors are either entirely clear plastic or glass. If you have a swift and stealthy leopard gecko who acts such the protagonist in a heist film, this is ideal since you can modify how open the door has to be. You may open it only a crack when delivering live feeder insects that jump or crawl around so they don’t escape.

The disadvantage is that substrate and feeders may become stuck between the sliding doors and the rails. But it is quickly swept away, so I don’t mind if it happens to me. Sliding-door enclosures may or may not be equipped with a security system, depending on the manufacturer. It might be detachable or permanently attached to the unit.

Combo Access:

Tanks featuring a mix of top and front access options have slowly gained popularity among reptile keepers. The only drawback is that it generally comes at a high cost. Most renowned manufacturers of easily accessible enclosures now provide models with this style of access.

You have the finest of both worlds with terrariums that include front doors and detachable top panels. You get an overhead view of your leos’ entire housing, just like in aquarium-style enclosures. Another advantage is that you may drop active live feeders like crickets from the top, preventing them from escaping while feeding.

You would not have to bother about frightening or worse, losing your adorable little Leo because there is also a front door opening. This is particularly true while you’re still adjusting a new leopard gecko to you and its unfamiliar environment.

Furthermore, being able to access every nook and corner of the terrarium from the front and top would make dimensions more exact. And designing is much simpler if you want to place a customized enclosure component – say, a big false rock mountainous backdrop complete with caves and hides. You’ll never miss a place when it comes to cleaning and maintenance.

Substrate:

Leopard geckos live on a variety of different substrates. The substrate is the bedding/material that will be used to cover the tank’s floor for your gecko to move on. Generally, substrates with a lot of small, indigestible bits, such as sand, gravel, chips, or wood, should be avoided since they might cause impaction.

A quick list of good and wore leos’ substrates is as follows:

Good (natural substrates)	Good (not-so-natural substrates)	Bad substrates	Debate substrates	Moist hide substrates
Large river pebbles	Ceramic tiles	Calcium sand	Coconut fiber	Coconut fiber
Stone slate	Paper towels	Sand	Wet paper towels
Excavator clay	Newspaper	Walnut shells	Sphagnum moss
	Reptile carpet	Bark
	Wood chippings
	Quartz
	Other forest substrates

Here you can find common gecko enclosure substrates and their advantages and disadvantages:

Stone slate: 

Perfectly normal for geckos and magnificently created by nature, stone slates give a solid grip, however, they can be hard to get and established.

Pros:

The most appealing of all non-loose beddings are stone slates, slabs, or pavers. They offer all of the advantages of actual rocks, such as an excellent grip and a natural appearance and texture. Furthermore, if they are not very porous, they are simple to clean. Slabs with a rough (but not sharp) appearance are suitable for lizards, including leopard geckos, since they give a secure walking ground.

Caution:

When constructing a slab cage, keep in mind that there must be no area between the cage wall and the edges of the stone slates where a Leo may be injured or stuck. The slabs must also be securely attached to the cage’s bottom (no wobbling).

Excavator clay: 

Not only does it enable you (and your lizards) to construct your own burrows and rock structures, but solidified excavator clay also closely resembles your Leo’s native habitat ground. It’s all really exciting!

Excavator clay is an innovative type of substrate that has recently entered the market. When the clay is sufficiently moistened, it may be molded like any other modeling clay. When it hardens, the shape you’ve made will remain securely in place. That’s how this substrate allows you to get some fun designing your own personalized Leo sceneries, including caves, burrows, and basking areas.

Because geckos are burrowing reptiles, they will like the burrows that appear to be natural. Finally, the clay-type bedding is closer to their native environment than pure desert sand.

Paper Towel:

Gecko breeders commonly use paper towels as a substrate since it is unattractive but extremely economical and secure. When your Leo has produced a mess, cleaning is simple and quick.

Pros:

Paper towels are inexpensive and quick to change, super-absorbant, and they make a good initial substrate for hatchlings or a quarantine cage if you’re isolated from a sick gecko. Another benefit of using white paper towels is that you may detect mites or other health hazards much sooner than with other bedding.

Cons:

These, on the other hand, have an artificial appearance; they will inhibit geckos from exhibiting their natural digging habit, and they will not give a strong grip for adults. Using scented paper towels is something that would not be suggested in any situation. Always choose the ones with the fewest chemicals. Non-perfumed types that have been naturally bleached/unbleached are the finest.

Newspapers:

Old newspapers are a more cost-effective alternative to paper towels, with a number of advantages. Typically, the paper is a very good absorbent. You’re also recycling or repurposing, so if you’re concerned about the environment, a newspaper is preferable to paper towels.

Adding newspaper, on the other side, is unnatural and unattractive, however, this may be mitigated by selecting pages with fascinating or amusing content for the top layer of the newspaper bedding. 

Always allow a week or more for the newspaper to settle and dry. Whereas the ink utilized to print newspapers nowadays is non-toxic, it’s better to be cautious than apologize. Furthermore, drying helps to alleviate the trouble of the distinct newspaper scent. To create this bedding strong and absorbent sufficiently, approximately five or six layers of a newspaper would be enough.

Reptile Carpet:

When purchasing a reptile carpet, look for one from a reputable company that has been made specifically for geckos. The claws of a gecko might become trapped in the fabric if it walks on the incorrect sort of carpet.

Pros:

Reptile carpet is a synthetic substrate that is meant to be both absorbent and supportive for reptiles. It assures that reptiles can acquire a strong grip when moving, despite the earlier described paper substrates.

Cons:

After a time, reptile carpets get nasty and unpleasant. Because geckos aren’t as messy as some other common lizards (like bearded dragons), this isn’t such a significant problem. A reptile carpet, on the other hand, will need to be washed as soon as you realize it has become too dirty.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions for washing procedures and timings of the carpet and when there is a need to replace it. Washing will ultimately make the fibers stand out, making it possible for your gecko’s sensitive fingers to get entangled in them. In your cage, just one layer of reptile carpet is required. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for everything. These can be pre-cut to a specific size, or you may cut it yourself to fit the bottom of your enclosure.

Crucial: Reptile carpets are not like standard “human carpets/astroturf”. None of these should be used in your habitat.

Lightening:

Because geckos are native to the Middle East, you would have to ensure their light cycles match those of their natural leopard gecko habitat. 

• Light cycle in summer (14 hours of light and 10 hours of darkness) 
• Light cycle in winter (12 hours for both light and darkness)

When switching from hot to cold weather hours, go for it slowly 15 to 30 minutes over the course of 4 to 8 weeks. Because it might be difficult or you may miss to switch on or off your leo’s light, it is preferable to set automated timers for your lighting. Automated timers are cheap and may save you a lot of time and stress.

Geckos must not be subjected to vibrant white lights/UV lamps because they are nocturnal. Excessive bright lighting, in fact, might cause them to get anxious.

Install a light bulb just above the leopard gecko or hang it on the tank screen cover. To avoid burns, enclose the bulb with a reflector dome and insert the bulb within. The ideal distance between your leo and the light is 7 to 9 inches (18 to 23 cm).

Ceramic sockets for overheated bulbs and an on and off switch on the cable are essential features of a good reflector dome. It must also completely cover the bulb to avoid any risk of burns/fire.

Get two different domes and install a daylight bulb in one and a night time bulb in the other if you require two distinct bulbs for day and night. You will link them to a power source in this manner so that they may be turned on and off at specific periods. It’s even possible to find twin domes. Set the light bulb on top of the screen and use an IR/digital thermometer to check the temperature by using it. If the temp is elevated, raise the dome high or use a height-adjustable light stand.

The bulb will induce eye injury in your lizard if it is placed on the side. The eyes of leo are shielded by an eyebrow ridge/arch that shields them from strong light. Keep an eye on the temperature to ensure it’s optimal. You may also install a “ceramic heat emitter” at night. To produce a temperature gradient, put heating equipment on one side.

Best Light For Leopard Geckos:

When it comes to lighting for geckos (and other lizards), there are three primary categories to consider:

• Daytime bulbs
• Nighttime bulbs
• Ceramic (heat) bulbs

Each sort of light has a distinct purpose:

Daylight lights: simulate daylight while simultaneously providing heat 

Night Light bulbs: allow you to see your lizards at night while still providing heat, although at a lower level than daytime heat bulbs

Only ceramic bulbs emit heat.

Best Setups for Tank Lighting:

For any gecko terrarium, here’s a short summary of a five-element arrangement:

1. In daylight, an incandescent heat lamp is used.
2. If your tank is very small, use a heating pad or a ceramic bulb for night heating.
3. If you need to keep an eye on your leos for a few hours, use a blue, black or red night light (optional).
4. To properly regulate your system, use a timer and a thermostat.

You could also go for a four-element setup:

1. Daylight with a full spectrum of UVA.
2. Ceramic bulb with a 24-h heating cycle/a heat pad.
3. For a few hours of observing, use a blue, black, or red night light (optional).
4. To properly regulate your system, use a timer and a thermostat.

Why is placing a gecko tank in front of a window not recommended?

Before thinking of utilizing natural light in your terrarium,  keep in mind that overheating is the greatest threat. Sunlight intensity cannot be controlled like bulbs. If the sunlight strikes directly on your window and the cage behind it, your terrarium might overheat. 

There must be no risk of overheating if the sunlight does not directly strike your window or just for a short duration. But, this strategy is still not recommended because natural lighting cycles in your area are uncertain to meet those that leos are adapted to. This is particularly true if you want to breed geckos.

Temperature:

“Geckos, like other lizards, need a thermal gradient in their habitat.”

This enables them to thermoregulate, or choose the right temperature for exploration, rest, and digestion at any specific time. There ought to be a specific basking area as well. Heating might originate from the belly, overhead heat, or both. Which heat source is better for leos is a point of controversy.

Creation of Thermal Gradient:

Many beginner lizard enthusiasts fall into a trap of heating the whole terrarium to the same temperature. Geckos are native to the “Middle East”, where it may become rather warm throughout the day, yet they still want to be able to get away from it all.

Heating only one side of their enclosure is the greatest solution. The opposite side of the spectrum is still colder. Based on the temperature in your home, the colder side may be completely cold or a heat mat might be used to provide moderate heat. The basking area, on the other hand, is where the action is, and your leo will most possibly spend much time there.

Ideally, give various hiding spots for your lizard, one at the warm side and one at the cold side, so your reptile may select the optimal spot for itself.

Keep an eye on the temp of your leo enclosure to make sure it’s appropriate. Install a digital thermometer with two distinct probes or position a thermometer at either side of the terrarium.

In a gecko cage what are the ideal temps?

• The warm end of the tank’s surface should be kept at 88 – 92° F (31.3° C – 33.3° C) during the day.
• The temperature must be comparable in the daytime inside a warm and dry hide in a basking area 88-  92° F (31.3° C – 33.3° C).
• The air temperature in a warm location throughout the day ought to be 80 – 83° F (26.6° C – 28.3° C), four to six inches above the floor.
• Daytime temperature must be between 73 – 76° F (22.7° C – 24.4° C) at a height of four to six inches above the ground.
• The temperature ought to be 67 – 74° F (19.4° C – 23° C) in a humid hideaway, which must be on the warm end or in the center.
• Temperature must be kept between 67 – 74 ° F (19.4° C – 23° C) at night. This will assist to simulate a natural setting.

How to keep a Gecko Enclosure Warm?

For geckos, lizard caretakers utilize a variety of reptile-safe warmers. There are three most common heaters

• Ceramic heaters 
• Heat lamps 
• Heat mats

Ceramic Heaters:

These are definitely the best option for geckos when it comes to heat. They’re designed to produce high temperatures, therefore no matter how chilly your house is, they will keep your pet warm. Geckos also emit no visible light, so they may be left on all night without disrupting your leo’s circadian cycle.

Ceramic heaters are quite hot, therefore they must be used with care. To avoid overheating the enclosure or your leo, always utilize a good ceramic bulb holder and a thermostat. Also, make sure your gecko does not get into touch with the bulb, as this might cause burns.

Luckily, leopard geckos do not have adhesive toe pads as other geckos, thus they are unable to climb up their enclosure onto the warmer.

Heat Lamps:

Heat lights have recently become a popular option for geckos because they are native to dry, desert-like habitats. They may get quite hot, similar to a ceramic heater, but these also create visible light, similar to an ancient incandescent bulb.

Heat Mats:

These are possibly the cheapest and most straightforward method of reptile warming. Unfortunately, they only create relatively low temperatures, making them ineffective for your leos’ basking site. If required, they can be used to gradually warm the cooler side of the house throughout the winter.

Do Geckos Require Heat During the Night?

Yes, because leos are most active at night, therefore keeping warm is essential at this time. Finally, some reptile thermostats feature varied temperature settings for varying periods of the day. As a result, you may set your warmer to be a little hotter throughout the day and a bit cooler at night to better resemble the wild environments your pet would encounter.

Decoration:

You will also have to provide your gecko’s cage with a few hides as well as lots of objects for them to engage with, such as rocks, plants, and other decorations.

Hides:

The hides, which are basically little caves for the leo to seek refuge in, are the most crucial furniture in your leos’ habitat. “A warm, moist hide and a chilly, dry hide are ideal for your lizard.” The warm, moist hide should be on the hotter side of the tank, with a substrate such as paper towels within to keep it damp without raising the tank’s general humidity level. You’ll have to wet the hide’s substrate at minimum one or two times a day to retain moisture. When your lizard sheds its skin, it may try to remove patches of skin from its toes, tail, and folds in its skin, such as beneath its underarm.

The shedding skin can be dampened and softened by the warm, damp habitat conditions making it easier for the skin to remove. The dry, chilly hide, on the other side, will have to be placed on the cage’s other side. If your leopard gecko is nervous or wants to sleep, it will give a nice, shaded location for them to hang out in.

Plants:

You want to add real plants, and you will also like to learn which plants are appropriate for your lizard.

Aansevierias: snake plants such as S. patens, Sansevieria trifasciata, S horwoodii, S. t. hahnii, S. kirkii pulchra, and S. singularis

Zamioculcas zamiifolia

Cucurbits: such as Momordica rostrata and Xerosicyos danguyi 

Yemen grape: Cissus rotundifolia

Euphorbias: the hybrid E. milli x E. lophogona and E. geroldii

“Bonsai” plectranthus: such as Swedish ivy (Plectranthus ernstii)

Others: the Mexican caudexed fig (Ficus petiolaria), climbing aloe (Alo cilias), and elephant bush (Portulacaria afra), 

Other Supplies:

Finally, you can decide what other varieties of décor you want to include in the terrarium. Rocks, plants, and small furniture pieces such as hammocks, bridges, and platforms are all excellent selections. It’s up to you if you use fake/real plants, however for new leopard gecko caretakers, we prefer artificial plants because your gecko won’t be eating them anyhow. Artificial plants are much easier to maintain and look just as good as genuine ones.

Humidity:

Leos are native to places where there are dry, hot, rocky grasslands and semi-arid deserts. Therefore, these majestic creatures will not thrive in a stuffy habitat with persistently increased humidity levels. For geckos, humidity levels should be between thirty to forty percent. Anything less or more than that might lead to health issues such as microbial infections and the retention of lost skin. Remember that even if everything you put in your Leo’s terrarium is sterile and clean, mold and bacterial development will occur if you don’t conduct good husbandry. 

To avoid such issues, keep an eye on the humidity level in the container with a hygrometer. If the humidity in Leo’s cage rises beyond 40%, more ventilation holes must be made in the walls or roof. However, no holes should be left neglected. Fine mesh slit vents should be used to cover them. When humidity levels fall below 30%, close several of the holes to increase the humidity level.

It might be difficult to set up a Leopard Gecko terrarium. Maybe, you now have a good idea of what you require. We’ve compiled a list of all that you must have in your Lizard’s cage, which you can find below:

• Glass reptile terrarium with a capacity of 20 gallons.
• Shelf liner for substrate that is non-adhesive.
• a total of three hides (warm, moist and cool).
• Artificial plants and branches
• Bowls of food and water
• Ceramic Heater and lamp
• UVB bulb, 25 watts (not more than 6 percent).
• Thermostat 
• Thermometer 
• and hygrometer are all included.

Conclusion: 

The captive leopard gecko habitat will never be the same as that of a wild leopard gecko. All leopard geckos, on the other hand, exhibit similar behaviors and have the same main goal: “survival”.

Whether they are in a cage or out in the wild, the environment they are in has a big impact on their protection and chances of survival. But, no matter where they reside, it’s critical that they receive everything they need to live and aren’t put in more danger than they have to be.

Both varieties of geckos have distinct lives, but they all need the same basic necessities, so that’s something to keep in mind if you’re thinking about bringing one home. Because of the surroundings in which they were raised, they are hardy, but it is our aim as caring owners to provide them with the simplest, most pleasant existence possible so that they could live as long as possible.

FAQ’s