Banana ball pythons are already well-known for their vibrant colors, but their excellent temperament and ease of care are gaining popularity. The banana ball python has no demanding needs or unique feeding habits, ideal for newbies and specialists.
Bananas do not have a distinct species or subspecies. Instead, they’ve become a sought-after mutation. Although the actual number is unclear, herpetologists believe in over 4,000 specific ball python variants worldwide.
These banana-colored marvels are only one of the numerous choices available.
Banana morphs are the result of selective breeding. The majority of snakes on the marketplace currently have been carefully bred. Surprisingly, the unusual coloring may be seen in West African reptiles naturally. However, it’s an infrequent occurrence.
They are easy to handle and are rather energetic, providing them a delight to watch both within and outside of their habitat.
So, if you’re considering getting your hands on a banana ball python and want some extensive information about it, you’ve come to the correct spot. This article will go over all there for you to know about the banana ball python.
The appearance of banana ball python:
As its name indicates, the banana ball python displays brilliant yellow patterns over a tan background. The yellow areas are vivid, which contrasts wonderfully with the subdued background.
Small dark brown blemishes accompany those yellow areas. When you combine it all, you’ve got a style that’ll remind you of everyone’s favorite yellow fruit: BANANA!
The look of super banana ball pythons is often drab and ‘washed out.’ Their spots are more tan than genuine yellow, and their base is closer to gray or brownish than tanned.
Apart from being mistaken for a super, banana ball pythons are also often confused with coral glow ball pythons.
They have similar color schemes; however, a coral glow python has a deep lavender body with orange spots. With time, the spots may bleach to a yellow hue around the exterior borders, giving the appearance of bright patches and giving this python its name.
Although, the center of the spots should always be orange, indicating that it is a glow python rather than a banana python.
Size of a Banana Ball Python
Banana ball pythons have a bulky appearance, yet they aren’t particularly lengthy pythons. When fully mature, a banana ball python may reach a length of 2 to 5 feet.
The vast size range is due to variances in male and female genetics. The snake’s dimorphic character isn’t readily apparent at first look. When you place the two genders next to each other, though, you’ll find a vast size difference.
Females have a substantially more significant growth potential than men. Females develop between 3 to 5 feet long when fully extended. On the other hand, Males are only 2 or 3 feet long.
Banana ball python kinds and prices:
Banana variants come in approximately 20 distinct varieties, each with unique colors and a gentle personality. Some of the most well-known are:
- Banana clown.
- Banana cinnamon.
- Black pastel banana.
- Banana pied.
- Banana spider.
The cost of each morph varies depending on the design and other considerations. Regardless, these types will cost more than a standard banana ball python.
Take into account your wallet and which morphs are inside that range while hunting for a banana ball python for purchase.
Depending on their size, morph variation, color, and breeder or vendor, banana ball pythons can range somewhere between $100 to $500.
The lifespan of banana ball python:
The typical lifespan of a banana ball python is 20 to 30 years. Exceptional examples of these python lasting more than three decades have been reported. While that is a theoretical exception, a more realistic forecast is 20 to 30 years.
These snakes may bring you a lot of pleasure for a long time. You must, though, put in the effort to maintain them nutritious. It’s impossible to predict whether or not, your ball python will live an entire life.
Temperament and Behavior of Banana Ball Pythons:
Banana ball pythons are pretty calm, making them perfect for all sorts of python keepers, whether novice or experienced.
They perform well with frequent engagement sessions just a few times per week, while too much petting might upset them excessively.
Yet, because they are easily startled, it is recommended not to keep or approach them in rush areas of your home.
Ball pythons are most energetic at night, but they may emerge to sunbathe, soak, or feed throughout the day.
They’re non-venomous snakes that prefer to suffocate rather than bite their victim. So, if your python bites you, don’t freak out. Allow for your banana ball python to free itself instead.
Care guide of banana ball python
Enclosure size:
While many people believe that a large cage is usually the best option, this isn’t necessarily the case with banana ball pythons. These snakes might get exhausted when they reside in broad, open spaces. They want to dwell in enclosed spaces in solitude.
They’ll need a tank with a capacity of at least 30 gallons. But, particularly for females, a 40 to 60-gallon cage is ideal.
Because of their fearful attitude, you should put three additional hides in their cage since they would enjoy extra.
One side should be on the “hot” edge, and the other should be on the “cool” part.
In the center, but closer to the “hot” edge, place a third, covered hide; this moisture hide will aid shed removal.
What should you put in their surroundings?
Begin with an absorbing base material. It makes cleaning up spills easier, but it can also help maintain humidity levels.
The moldy atmosphere these snakes prefer is created by absorbing substrates that trap moisture.
Ensure your snake has access to fresh water at all times. If wanted, your python should be able to coil up and bathe in the water dish.
The substrate should be ideal for digging and maintaining a high level of dampness. It’s best if the ground is at least 3 – 5 inches thick.
Both orchid’s bark and cypress mulch are common substrates. Avoid using cedar or any other sticky materials as a substrate. The tiny particles of soil-based materials annoy the snake’s nose and mouth, making them unsuitable.
Temperature and lighting:
Banana ball pythons are native to West Africa’s hot climes and demand hot conditions to thrive. If the temperature outside the safe zone drops, your snake may suffer from various health issues.
It’s not only a matter of providing heat; these chilly species require a thermal gradient to thermoregulate. To allow the snake to crawl about freely, one half must be warmer than the other.
Use warmth emitters or under-tank hot plates to generate your gradient. Use your lighting to heat the environment around 80- and 85-degrees F on the warm side.
Opt for environmental temps of 75 to 80 degrees F on the chilly side. Don’t allow the temperature to drop under 75 degrees. Keep a close eye on situations at night and, if required, employ non-lighted warming methods to keep conditions steady.
Put everything on a timer once you’ve installed the regular lights. Banana ball pythons need synthetic light settings that mimic the day-night cycle. Without it, the snake’s whole sleep cycle might be thrown off, disrupting eating, shedding, and other aspects of its life.
Humidity levels:
High humidity levels, roughly 50–60%, will be required in the python’s cage. According to the habitat, this may be tough to maintain.
Consider putting on misting devices or a humidifier if the watering dish and your living area moisture levels aren’t enough.
If the humidity levels are elevated, increase the airflow to enable fresh air; you can remove the values to enhance airflow.
Ensure that the water sources are nearer to the tank’s “hot” side. Colder temperatures and heavy humidity can worsen respiratory diseases.
Diet of banana ball pythons:
Water:
Every banana ball python cage must have a deep-water bowl. Many new snake caretakers overlook this item, and their snake suffers greatly.
Ball pythons use water bowls in a variety of ways. You could observe them sip the water on rare instances. You’re more likely to see them soaked, though.
Bathing aids in reducing skin temperature and speeding up the shedding mechanism.
Put a large dish with ample room for your snake to wriggle about in. When necessary, use a large container. If you can, acquire a spill-proof one because these snakes tend to flip it over and make a mess.
Food:
Banana ball pythons are easy to care for when it comes to feeding. In captivity, they are indeed carnivores who exclusively consume rodents.
The snake’s food in the wild is more diversified. Rats, pigeons, and other animals that intersect the snake’s route may be eaten. When providing for a caged snake, though, you won’t have to worry about any of that.
Most herpetologists feel that defrost; frozen mice are the best option. Feeding rodents may be found at almost every local pet shop.
Every five days, the juvenile should consume little index fingers and fuzzies. On the other hand, adults require a huge rat after 7 to 10 days. They may require more extensive feedings throughout shedding times, although 7 to 10 days is the average.
Top Tip: When picking feeder rats, choose smaller food than your snake’s body’s thickest point.
When feeding the python, prepare the food to room temperature. Then serve your snake with a set of tongs and a covered hand. After feeding the snake, ensure not to handle it for at least a day.
Health issues:
Inadequate management is the most frequent cause of sickness in banana ball pythons. If you don’t maintain your snake’s habitat clean or provide sufficient care, they may develop the following health issues:
- Infections of the Respiratory System
- Mites/Skin Infections
- Weight Issues
- Tonged rot
If you bought a morph variation, such as a cinnamon banana ball python, keep an eye out for genetic abnormalities like Wobble, duckbill, or Kinking.
If your python is having problems regarding breathing or eating, scratching its face or body frequently, or has a white material around its head or nose, consult your veterinarian right away.
Cage upkeep and preventive care, like frequent veterinarian visits, may help keep your banana ball python alive and comfortable.
Do Banana Ball Pythons like to be held?
With minimal handling, banana ball pythons perform great. Even so, it would help if you first established confidence before handling becomes routine.
When you add a new python home, it’s usual to notice timid behavior. Allow it to adjust to its new surroundings before trying to attach.
Keep your initial contact light and soft. To establish trust, try massaging its back. You can eventually progress to brief handling practices.
Raise the body at its widest point before sustaining the snake’s total weight. To get comfy, it should bind itself around your shoulder. Avoid putting too much force on the snake’s body and making rapid motions that can shock it.
As your snake becomes acquainted with you, the shyness will fade.
Final reflections:
It’s obvious to see why the banana ball pythons are so popular, given their stunning color combination and relatively close behavior.
Banana ball python maintenance should not terrify you, regardless of your level of expertise. It’s simple to make these pythons grow as long as you follow the prescribed care guidelines.
Please tell us what you honestly believe of the banana ball python morph in the comments area below.
A newborn banana ball python costs between $100 and $150; Adults are priced between $200 and $300. The most costly morphs (for example, scaleless bananas) may cost up to $3,000 each.
To acquire a sense of the snake’s attitude, ask to hold it. A relaxed python will move intentionally and alertly, flipping its tongue regularly.
It will wrap up in a ball and screech if frightening; a continually stressed animal indicates a poor trainer.
Any rapid movement might scare banana ball pythons. They can, though, learn to appreciate handling if you take your time and soothe them into it. If they are mistreated, they might get anxious.
Ball pythons adore being submerged in water. You may have seen them coiled up inside a sizable sufficient water dish on a few occasions.
Ball pythons require a basking place around 90 degrees Fahrenheit and a temperature of around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Most python enthusiasts use under-tank heating pads to keep their tanks warmer, but maintaining and monitoring correct temperatures with heat sources may be tricky.
Despite snakes gaining from heating at night if the temperature falls below a certain level, a heating lamp is not the most excellent way to keep them warm once the sunsets.
Remember to switch off the heating pad at night to resemble their natural surroundings as closely as possible.
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