Baby Copperhead – Diet, Enclosure, Handling, and Everything you Need to Know

Introduction

Some of the more often sighted snakes in North America are copperheads. Although their venom is very weak and their bites seldom result in human fatalities, they are also the most prone to bite.

Despite having a deadly bite, this snake makes a great pet for individuals who have prior expertise because they are quite simple to care for in captivity.

Baby copperheads are frequently discovered in wood heaps, garages, shrubs, and next to outdoor furniture.

Knowing how to recognize the species of copperheads is crucial if you live in a region where they are common. Each year, these snakes are to blame for more than 50% of poisonous snake bites in the US. They are only one of 20 poisonous species in the United States, yet this is still true.

It might be challenging to learn how to recognize this species. Babies resemble nonvenomous species like young corn snakes and rat snakes in size and appearance.

It is a good idea to understand how to spot a copperhead if you reside in a region where they are common. You may choose when to call a specialist to safely move a snake by knowing how to distinguish them from other nonvenomous snakes.

Check out our care document below if you’re seeking a non-traditional snake with a distinctive design and a calm disposition.

Description 

Name	Baby Copperhead
Scientific name	Agkistrodon contortrix
Size	7 to 9 inches long
Color	Grey, brown and red
Weight	1 ounce
Experience level	Experienced
Conservational status	Least concern
Origin	New England to west Texas and Mexico
Temperature	75℉-85℉

Origin of the Baby Copperhead

Northern copperheads can be found from the Florida panhandle north to Massachusetts and west to Nebraska.

Northern copperheads are the most common of the five copperhead subspecies. It can be found in Northern Georgia and Alabama, as well as in Illinois and Massachusetts to the north and west.

Copperheads can be found in a variety of habitats, including rocky, forested hillsides, wetlands, and semi-aquatic environments. Additionally, they have been observed living in construction zones, rotting wood or sawdust heaps, and occasionally suburban neighborhoods. They will also sunbathe and go swimming while hunting prey by climbing into low bushes or trees.

There are roughly 20 snakes that are endemic to Washington, D.C., but the copperhead is the only deadly snake in the region. The timber rattlesnake, which may be found in Virginia, Maryland, and West Virginia, is the other venomous snake that can be found close to Washington, D.C. Many non-dangerous snakes, including the black rat snake, garter snake, northern water snake, ringneck snake, and Dekay’s or northern brown snake, are mistaken for copperheads.

Habitat of the Baby Copperhead

A. contortrix has a wide geographic distribution and can be found in a variety of habitats.

They are often found in deciduous woods and open woodlands with rock outcrops and mountainous terrain in the northeast and Appalachians

Additionally preferred are areas with downed woody vegetation. They can be found in low, moist forests, including the borders of wetlands, on the southern coastal plain.

They are connected to riparian regions in mixed forests with stream banks and arroyos further west. Additionally, they have associations with built-up places like suburban subdivisions, sawdust heaps, and construction sites.

It is ranked as the snake species in the United States with the highest number of bites probably due to its proximity.

The majority of overwintering locations are south or west-oriented and include hollow logs, stumps, abandoned mines, caverns, and building foundations. Such locations are frequently used by gravid females, who favor microhabitats with higher temperature profiles.

Copperheads can be found in a variety of habitats, including rocky, forested hillsides, wetlands, and semi-aquatic environments. Additionally, they have been observed living in construction zones, rotting wood or sawdust heaps, and occasionally suburban neighborhoods.

The Appearance of the Baby Copperhead. 

The length of a copperhead ranges from 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 meters), making it a medium-sized snake. According to the Smithsonian National Zoological Park, male copperhead snakes have proportionately larger tails, whereas female copperhead snakes are longer (opens in new tab).

According to Beane, copperheads have various patterns on their body.

Many non-venomous snake species are mistaken for copperheads because of their similar color. However, the copperhead is the only species of snake with hourglass-shaped patterns.

The snake’s coppery-brown head, in contrast to its patterned body, is devoid of such ornamentation “except a pair of tiny dark spots commonly present on top of the head,” according to Beane. “White, yellowish, or a light brownish, stippled or mottled, with brown, gray, or blackish, usually huge, paired dark blotches or smudges along sides of [its] abdomen,” was how he defined copperhead stomachs.

Copperheads have keeled (ridged) scales and strong, muscular bodies. The top of their heads has a “slightly pronounced ridge separating them from the side snout between eye and nostril,” according to Beane, who also noted that their heads are “quite

triangular/arrow-shaped and different from the neck.” Their irises are frequently orange, tan, or reddish-brown, and their pupils are vertical, like cat eyes.

Young copperheads are grayer than adult copperheads and have tail tips that are brilliant yellow or greenish yellow. This color ages in about a year, according to Beane.

Weight of Baby Copperhead.

The four to eight newborns, measuring 7 to 10 inches (17 to 25 cm), are under an ounce (28 g) in weight.

Size of the Baby Copperhead 

Adult copperheads are usually between 61 and 90 centimeters long (24 and 36 inches). Young copperheads typically measure 18 to 25 centimeters (7 to 10 inches) in length.

Size differences between male and female copperheads are due to sex, with males having longer tails than females.

The Shape of the Baby Copperhead 

The first thing to look at when you encounter a snake that might be a newborn copperhead is its pattern. Their base hues range from rusty orange to brown and from yellowish tan to dusty gray. This color is divided into two bands by dark bands that are both filled with light blushing.

These bands cross perpendicularly along its spine when seen from above. These bands become thinner and narrower as they go closer to the spine. They broaden out once more on either side of the spine, giving the impression of an hourglass shape.

These hourglasses can be clearly defined or somewhat offset depending on the snake. The general hourglass form, however, will be the same for all species. Some subspecies, like the northern, have sporadic dots between their hourglasses that give them more leaf litter camouflage.

Despite having more gray at birth than adults, babies nonetheless have the characteristic banding pattern.

One of the best ways to recognize this species is if an hourglass pattern is present. You don’t need to get close to the snake because most of the time this telltale pattern is seen from a safe distance.

Remember that the corn snake (Pantherophis guttatus), which has a similar pattern of dark bands, can be found in many of the same places.

 But rather than hourglass-shaped marks, they have saddle-shaped ones. This indicates that the patterning on them becomes wider along the spine and narrower on either side.

Color of the Baby Copperhead 

They can be rusty red, yellow-brown, or a grayish tan tint.

 The tail tip of juveniles is a vivid yellow-green color, which contrasts sharply with the rest of their bodies. They use this tail as a lure when hunting to entice small animals drawn to its caterpillar-like look.

 On a background of milder brown, tan, salmon, or pinkish color, the dorsal pattern of this animal is described by Beane as being composed of a series of dark, chestnut-brown, or reddish-brown crossbands, each shaped like an hourglass, dumbbell, or saddlebag.

 The crossbands are “often darker in the lateral centers and lighter at the margins, wide on the sides of the body and thin in the middle of the back,” some “may be fragmented, and occasionally little black spots may be in the spaces between the crossbands,” according to the current circumstances.

The Tail of the Baby Copperhead 

Infants and young juveniles have an intriguing trait that adults do not have. Their tail tip is a vivid, greenish-yellow color. The snake’s bright green tail stands out against any natural background it hides against and contrasts sharply with the rest of its body.

This yellow tail does not hatch until copperheads are about two years old.

A baby copperhead can be identified by its neon green tail tip on a snake that is otherwise yellowish tan to brown.

It is believed that the function of their green tail tip is connected to how young snakes hunt. While youngsters typically feed small amphibians and insects like cicadas, caterpillars, and grasshoppers, adults primarily consume mammals and birds. Birds and rodents make up a lesser percentage of prey since they are harder for young newborns to hunt.

A baby will wag the green tip of its tail to imitate a caterpillar while sitting still in leaf litter. The vibrant color and movement of the tail draw predatory frogs and toads into striking distance.

Both are venomous and closely related to cottonmouths. In actuality, this species’ venom is more lethal than copperheads’. In either case, proceed with caution if you see a young snake with a green tail tip.

Head of the Baby Copperhead 

Two venom glands on copperheads are located below and behind their eyes. When viewed from the top, their heads have a triangle shape due to their venom sacs and the surrounding muscle that regulates the output of venom. The majority of dangerous snakes, notably pit vipers, have this triangle shape frequently.

Since copperhead babies are born with venom glands, they have the recognizable triangular head form.

Similar species, like immature rat snakes, lack triangular heads. Instead, they have necks that are somewhat wider than their heads, which are similarly shaped. The back of a baby copperhead’s head is much larger than the neck and quickly narrows to a pointed snout.

Snakes that are calm or relaxed and not in a defensive position are the greatest candidates for this identification technique (e.g. tightly coiled up or hissing).

When frightened, some non-venomous, harmless snakes will purposely flatten their heads into a more triangular shape. Hognose snakes frequently engage in this behavior, which they utilize to imitate the appearance of a venomous snake to trick predators and prevent them from attacking. Hissing, mimic hitting, and a vibrating tail is frequently included in addition to it.

Even when not under stress, the skulls of baby copperheads are triangular. Any snake with a triangular head that is basking, climbing, or behaving normally is probably venomous.

The Lifespan of the Baby Copperhead

Like other snakes kept as pets, several common health problems can develop if improper husbandry practices are used or cages are not kept in good condition. This species is prone to dermatitis, mouth rot, and parasites:

Infectious stomatitis, sometimes known as mouth rot, is a common issue among snakes housed in captivity. A mouth injury, a poor diet, or an unclean environment are the usual causes of this sickness, which causes bloody gums.

Common parasitic illnesses include those brought on by worms, coccidia, ticks, lice, and protozoa, among other creatures. Dewormers are necessary for the treatment of parasitic infections.

The skin is inflamed and infected, which causes inappropriate shedding, which is another prevalent health issue. Usually, excessively wet enclosures are to blame for this, which calls for topical treatment.

The copperhead has a life expectancy that is relatively long when compared to several other species. They can live up to 18 years in the wild and 25 years in captivity.

The Behavior of the Baby Copperhead

Agkistrodon contortrix is active in the northern portion of its range from early March to late April. On warm days in December and January, they have been seen taking a sunbath. While communal hibernacula are common and may contain other species, there is evidence that copperheads can hibernate on their own (timber rattlesnakes, eastern racers, and eastern rat snakes). Individuals prefer to spend a few weeks sunbathing around the hibernaculum after emerging in the spring before becoming more active. Seasonal travels to and from hibernacula must be long since they are frequently outside the snake’s food zone during the active time.

In the spring and fall, copperheads are usually active during the day. They turn nocturnal or crepuscular in the summer to hunt during the cooler evening hours. Contrarily, copperheads carefully choose their daytime resting locations to maintain their optimal body temperatures of 23 to 31 degrees Celsius. Snakes have been seen thermoregulating up to 5 meters above ground in bushes and small trees, despite their affinity for the substrate surface.

It has been discovered that men participate in a larger variety of activities than women. This contrast stands out more during the breeding season when males frequently exhibit more hostility. Males that are hunting for partners are believed to move about more. Contrarily, gravid females wander less than non-gravid females and are usually spotted in groups of four to six near the overwintering site.

Breeding the Baby Copperhead 

Mating technique

During mating season, males use their tongues to sense chemicals in the air to locate females.

 A sexual size difference that may help in partner selection is that males have longer tongues than females.

Men’s fighting can be vicious and take many different forms.

Most fighting maneuvers include raising the front half of the body and executing a sequence of connected lunges and spins.

The victorious male is given access to the neighboring female and starts a romance with her after maintaining his composure for the longest.

The male is required to get involved in yet another complicated fight with the female after obtaining the right to mating pursuit.

The male flicks his tongue, rubs the female’s back with his chin, and both sexes lift the front portion of their bodies (akin to the male-to-male battle position). To entice the male in, a receptive female will lift her tail and open her cloaca.

It has been demonstrated that receptive females can successfully mate with some males, leading to multiple paternity in a litter. A female that is not interested will constantly wriggle and swing her tail to prevent copulation.

Mating Seasons 

There are two mating seasons for the vast majority of A. contortrix populations that have been studied: one from February to May and one from August to October.

The latter mating season typically does not result in rapid fertilization since females can store sperm over the winter for use in fertilizing ova the following spring.

According to a study, spring breeding has not been seen in a population in the north at the edge of the range.

Age of Reaching Sexual Maturity.

Both male and female copperheads achieve sexual maturity between the ages of 3 and 4.

Once sexual maturity is reached, females can start reproducing, however, they typically skip one or two seasons after giving birth.

The proximity of food sources is hypothesized to have an impact on this pattern. Four to eight neonates are normally born during an 83-day pregnancy, however, litter numbers can range from one to twenty-one, with larger and older moms typically delivering larger litters.

Neonatal body mass and overall length are influenced by the size of the mother, averaging 20.6 cm and 10.6 g, respectively.

Gestation 

The primary parental investment made by female copperheads is the energy used to yolk eggs and carry embryos during gestation. After giving birth, neonates may remain with their moms for a few days or until they lose their initial covering of skin. Men don’t exhibit any parental involvement.

Conservational Status of the Baby Copperhead. 

According to the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species as of 2007, copperheads are classified as a species of Least Concern (LC). 

The reason for their ranking as “Least Concern” may be related to their substantial population size or broad geographic dispersion. However, there are population reductions in several parts of the country, and in Massachusetts and Iowa, they are listed as endangered.

 The following threats have been noted: habitat loss, invasive species, use of insecticides, and traffic fatalities.

Baby Copperhead Predators 

Copperheads are apex predators and are near the top of their food chain. They generally lay an ambush in search of their food. So, they hardly have natural predators, especially adult copperheads. 

Are Baby Copperhead Venomous?

Like many other snakes, copperheads are very poisonous and lethal. When unintentionally handled or trodden, they frequently attack and bite.

The venom of adult and baby copperheads is the same. Their poison is no more distinctive or harmful than that of grownups.

Because their venom glands are tinnier than those of adults, they contain less venom. Despite possessing up to 85 mg of venom in reserve, an adult copperhead injects just 26 mg of venom on average.

Care Guide of the Baby Copperhead

Enclosure Tanks

Although this snake may live in a variety of habitats, including open fields and dense forests, they prefer the woodlands surrounding waterways.

They spend the day basking in the sun on rocky outcrops along rivers and streams, and at night they seek cover among the logs.

They are resilient snake that easily adjusts to new surroundings.

The two most important factors to take into account while building a copperhead cage are the necessity of a defined basking area and the inclusion of multiple hiding places.

The sort of terrarium used to house them isn’t important because this snake requires an enclosure temperature much lower than typical pet reptiles.

It works well to use a larger glass or wooden terrarium.

Make sure their terrarium is at least 30 gallons, and 50 gallons is advised if you are housing couples.

Due to their propensity for escaping, the terrarium must have a tight-fitting lid.

Light and Baskingspot

The ideal heat source for their enclosure, which needs to be below 85 degrees, is a basking lamp pointed at a single basking rock (do not use heat rocks; they are damaging).

The optimum bulb for the basking lamp uses mercury vapor.

Between 92 and 95 degrees should be the temperature of the basking area.

Substrate and Bedding

Since they are burrowing snakes, they thrive on a substrate that allows them to bury themselves. The greatest options are ideally fallen oak and maple leaves because it closely resembles their native habitat.

The most typical substrate for copperheads, which are burrowing snakes, is made up of dried, fallen maple or oak leaves. Newspapers that have been folded, aspen or cypress shavings, many layers of paper towels, or newspapers that have been pelleted can also make good substrates.

Copperhead snakes can be effectively kept on a variety of substrates, including bedding made of aspen shavings or chips and mulch. Additionally, terrariums with real plants and dirt are fantastic options.

The ideal method to observe and appreciate copperheads’ natural activity is to put them up with sticks, rocks, plants, and soil, which will allow their inquisitiveness to show. Copperheads are great camouflage masters.

 On the other hand, to ensure a copperhead’s comfort and well-being, hiding spaces like a plastic hide box or small, hollow logs positioned strategically should be offered.

Temperature and Humidity

Maintaining a natural light pattern that resembles the usual daily light pattern is strongly advised.

When it comes to temperature gradients, copperhead snakes are not overly snobbish. But it’s important to maintain a steady temperature that ranges from around 24-27 °C (75-80 °F) on the cool side to about 29-32 °C (85-90 °F) on the warm side.

When using a basking lamp to give daytime lighting, be careful to maintain a hot spot of 92 to 95 °F (33 to 35 °C) as opposed to a cool nighttime region that does not fall below 60 °F (15.5 Celsius).

Although copperhead snakes don’t need a certain humidity level to be kept at all times, adding humidity is essential if your pet has shedding problems.

Additionally, copperheads must have a dry spot to rest since doing so keeps their scales from continually coming into contact with moisture, which is vital for maintaining the health of their scales.

Hiding Spots and Décor

The majority of snakes spend their days in concealment, keeping away from predators and excessive sun exposure. This guideline applies to all snakes, not only poisonous ones like the copperhead.

For a copperhead to exhibit its normal habits, its enclosure must have the following four modifications:

There should be hiding places like logs and boxes where they can hide if they feel threatened.

The majority of copperheads often spend their day’s basking, hence a location for this should be supplied (preferably a specific rock).

A water dish that can be submerged should be present and changed every day.

Copperhead snakes enjoy hiding beneath rocks, in trees, and mounds of leaves. A Copperhead may find it exceedingly difficult to see as a result, which helps it escape harmful predators and other risks.

The most prevalent venomous snake in the United States is the copperhead, which excels at using its coloring to conceal its position. You must therefore take great care to avoid stepping on one of these snakes by accident.

Cleaning 

To maintain this snake healthy, the cage needs to be cleaned properly and frequently.

Food that has not been eaten should be removed and the water replaced regularly.

Weekly removal and replacement of the substrate are required, and every month the entire terrarium needs to be cleaned with hot, non-toxic water and soap.

Spot cleaning should be done on the feces, and food fragments should be checked for. Snake excrement should have a distinct brighter, white section and a darker, blackish section. Your snake is ill if blood or uneaten meal components are discovered in the excrement.

Grooming and Skin Shedding

Typically, copperheads are shed successfully and without any problems. However, you must ensure that the humidity level is maintained during the shedding season at a higher level than usual.

You can offer your copperhead snake a small box filled with wet moss if it starts to shed excessively. The snake will be able to simply climb into the shed if this is done.

Diet of the Baby Copperhead. 

Pinky mice that have just been born should be given to young copperhead snakes, and their meals should be divided into portions that are the right size for each week.

Feeding young copperheads might be challenging at first because they aren’t always willing to eat mice right away. You must therefore develop a good starting feeding schedule. Start by giving your young copperhead snake a frozen, thawed mouse.

However, you should provide a live rat if your newborn copperhead does not seem interested in taking the frozen-thawed rodent. Offer your young pet a frozen-thawed rodent scented with a copperhead snake in case this method is unsuccessful (frog typically works best).

Finally, if none of the strategies mentioned above are successful, you can try providing a completely different type of food, such as a tiny frog

As a last option, you can attempt to use a tiny tube to feed a newborn copperhead using aid feeding techniques. Once the snake is in place, slide the pinkie mouse down so that when the copperhead goes into defense mode, it will immediately bite the mouse and then swallow it.

Tree frogs are one of the best scenting animals that copperheads like. The ideal way to use a frozen-thawed tree frog is to cut it open in the middle, then rub its insides with a mouse.

Adult copperhead snakes should be fed with an adult mouse either once, or twice per week to maintain a healthy body weight.

To maintain their rapid growth, copperheads must be fed larger meals.

To avoid parasites, it is important to only provide your pet copperhead snake with captive-reared mice and a restricted food source in general.

Additionally, each season, copperheads consume 1.25 to 2 times their body weight. They thus devour nearly twice as much prey each year as their body weight. 

Copperheads can last the whole winter without eating anything, and they can make it through the summer with just one meal every three weeks. 

Water Requirement.

Make sure your pet copperhead snake always has easy access to a reasonably sizable water bowl. The bowl needs to be large enough to accommodate the copperhead’s needs for both soaking and drinking. The ideal option is to choose a bowl made of a natural material, like granite or clay.

Along with making sure you always have access to fresh water, you must always keep the water container clean and fresh.

How to Hold a Baby Copperhead?

Only handle a copperhead if required.

Due to their dense body structure, snake hooks are not very effective.

The greatest tool for handling is a pair of clamp sticks since they give the snake good control.

If you have to hold your baby copperhead bare handed then Swiftly approach from behind and, using only your thumb and fingers, squeeze right under the snake’s jawline.  

Avoid gloves as they make you clumsy.

Baby Copperhead Health Issues. 

Every pet comes with several health problems and diseases if not taken good care of, some of the most occurring health issues in a baby copperhead are parasites, dermatitis, and mouth rot. To ensure the good health of the baby copperhead clean its enclosure.

Mouth Rots

One of the most common problems faced by retile et keepers is mouth rots

The symptoms of mouth rot are

• Mouth bleeding 
• The decline in eating food

These two are the major symptoms of mouth rot.

Mouth rot happens because of some injury in the mouth or not taking an adequate diet in unclean surroundings. In this disease, the snake’s gums start to bleed and this causes the snake severe pain.

Parasitic Infections 

Snakes kept as pets frequently have exterior parasites like ticks and mites as well as internal parasites such as different worms and coccidia. They are frequently undetectable unless through fecal testing and a yearly physical check.

Its symptoms are 

• Weight loss
• Stargazing 

Unclean substrates and eating rotten food is the cause of parasitic infection.

You must take your snake to a vet to cure this disease.

Inflammation and Poor Skin Shedding

As we know, snakes shed their skin to properly grow. Sometimes the snakes face problems in shedding skin. 

The symptoms of this are 

• Irritated behavior is shown by the snake 
• Incomplete sheds 

Enclosures that are too moist or too dry are the cause of this disease.

Some signs that your snake is healthy are 

• Breathing without wheezing 
• Bright eyes 
• Consuming food adequately 
• Silky dazzling skin

What to do if Your Baby Copperhead Bites You?

Fortunately, compared to the poisons from other snakes, a copperhead’s venom isn’t highly harmful to people. It’s not very powerful. Although the bite is painful, it nearly seldom results in human death. Only the tissues directly affected by the bite will suffer short-term harm. The situation can be saved with quick medical attention.

The only persons whose immune systems are compromised by copperhead bites are those. However, it’s important to keep in mind that copperheads are sluggish and won’t strike or bite until provoked. As a result, when copperheads detect any disturbance that seems dangerous, they strike without giving any prior warning.

Even while the majority of minor copperhead bites may eventually heal without treatment, we also know that early treatment improves patient outcomes since the majority of patients who initially have light bites will become moderate or severe bites. 

“The majority of patients should only not be treated if the patient (or a family member) decides against it after a thorough conversation about the costs involved.

The real cost to the patients is frequently in the low range of figures, despite the big numbers on the bill

if the bite area becomes painful, starts to swell, or changes color. Antivenom medications are widely available in ERs, which may be helpful.

Legality 

It is possible to keep a copperhead snake as a pet. Although there are no federal rules that prevent you from having one, each state, city, county, and even municipality may have its regulations.

With permission, you can keep copperheads as pets in the majority of states.

Cost of Getting a Baby Copperhead

Depending on the subspecies, color, and age, a Baby Copperhead can cost anywhere from $100 to $300. This snake is hard to locate since just a few reputable captive breeders provide them. Before buying, a comprehensive physical examination and medical history should be obtained.

 While getting a pet baby Copperhead Buyers should inspect the snake carefully for any indications of a health problem, such as staring, scale patching, or an irritated mouth. 

Snakes in general, including copperheads, should be perceptive and aware of their environment.

Are Baby Coppers Good Pets?

It is possible to keep a copperhead snake as a pet. Contrary to their wild counterparts, captive copperhead snakes often feed all year round since they are kept warm and consequently active. However, it is common for captive copperhead snakes maintained as pets to insist on eating during the colder winter months.

Are Baby Coopers Safe? 

Although less than 0.01% of baby copperhead bites are fatal, they are exceedingly painful. Although anti-venom is rarely necessary to neutralize the venom, problems are more likely to occur in newborns, the elderly, and those with weakened immune systems.

Most bites happen when someone unintentionally steps on them or picks them up.

Conclusion

Many reptile keepers choose brighter and more venomous snakes like rattlesnakes and water moccasins over copperheads but this doe not mean that the copperhead is a bad pet, the copperhead tends to be very nonviolent it does not bite until provoked.

They are among the simplest snakes to care for in captivity, despite their unpopularity, and don’t need as many particular materials as many other captive reptiles.

Anyone who feels comfortable handling snakes should consider it because, although dangerous, a human being seldom perishes from a snake bite.

If you want to add a deadly snake to your collection but are hesitant to purchase any of the larger and more dangerous cobras or rattlesnakes, this species is perfect for you.

They are also not very costly and won’t require a lot of investment in food or enclosure.

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